Way Out West

The voice of the Imam’s chanting wafts through the still dark air, calling the village Muslims to morning prayer as well as rousing all surfers from their sleep for a dawn session at Medewi Beach. As they begin paddling out one by one, the local outrigger fishing fleet is making their way back to shore, illuminated by the sun rising in the east over the Indian Ocean…a changing of the guard of sorts. Although worlds apart from each other, the visiting surfers and the local fisherman share a common bond in the sea.

Medewi, home to one of Bali’s longest waves at 150 to 400 meters, is situated in the western part of the island, the least visited and most unspoiled region. It is from this lovely spot that we have just returned. After leaving Ubud, Radka and I bummed a ride with our friend Oded as far west as Suraberata, near the mouth of the Balian River. Oded even went as far as booking us into a guesthouse belonging to a friend of his, Sacred River Retreat. Although the rooms and location were beautiful, the place turned out to be a bit too new age-ey, hudu guru stylee with prices that didn’t really match the “love all, serve all” vibe. So…we legged it the next day 30 K up the road to Medewi…. cheap and cheerful with all the waves you can surf. That is, as long as you remembered to bring your reef shoes...which I didn’t. After a handful of the longest left handers I’ve ever ridden, my career was cut short due to a sea urchin that found his way into the soles of my feet. With some local expertise and the proper tools and medicine (a thorn off a bush and a half-liter of Bintang) the spikes were removed and all was good. Our guesthouse was situated in such a splendid spot and it was such a pleasure to watch those much better than myself rip through wave after wave, I hardly noticed my throbbing feet.

We are back in Kuta Beach now, where we can both surf safely without coral reefs, big boulders and sabotaging sea urchins to contend with, until we fly out on Friday. There are plenty of quality boards for Radka to rent and, as for myself…well, despite the stupid amount of stuff already making the trip back with me, I decided to purchase a new custom 9’1” longboard. At a third of the price it would cost back in Cali, I just couldn’t resist the temptation, despite the fact that I have no idea how I’ll manage to bring it back home. Maybe some of the guys from Irish Express (my old cash source) can borrow a moving truck to get me back from the airport. Hey guys...you listening?