Moving On...

This blog is closed. To read it in chronological order, use the archive menu on the bottom right. If you are here specifically searching for my posts from Sri Lanka after the tsunami, you can read them here and here. Thanks for visiting! xo-->tee...

Moving Forward Into Yesterday

I'm refering, of course, to that longitudinal oddity, the International Date Line. I departed Auckland (an hour late) at 9 PM and arrived safely in san fran at 1PM the same day....moving forward, backwards in time. Or something like that. I'm just sitting here now at SFO with time to kill untill I fly out of Oakland tomorrow to get back East for my Mom's and Grandmother's birthdays. If you have to wait in an airport, SF beats Oaktown any day. I suppose, being back in the first world, the logical thing to do would be to check into a hotel but I figured, at this point, one more night in an airport won't kill me. And I know that should I contact anyone in SF to hang out, I won't be making my flight tomorrow ; ) Besides, you meet loads of interesting people knocking around airports. Must run now as I'm definitly paying first world prices just to write this and some buisness man is guarding my surfboard and bags at the bar. All most home. Can't wait to see everyone.
xx oo -->tee...

The Hardest Flight to Make

This time there would be no immigration officers, unsympathetic airline agents or other conspirators to keep her off the plane. This final delay in boarding the aircraft would be self-imposed. The tears were welling all around as the final boarding call was made for Thai Airways Flight 992. It didn't seem real after nine and a half months of travel together that this was really good by...the proverbial and literal end of the road.

When we booked our tickets over a year ago we had the decision to make as to where we would both end up. Because Radka's U.S. visa is firmly affixed to her old passport (and U.S. visas are not transferable) and because it would be a crap shoot at best applying for a new one as she is no longer a student and, technicaly, unemployed, we decided to go seperate ways at the end of the trip. Besides, to be completely honest, we couldn't even be sure that we would be still on speaking terms by the end of our voyage so it seemed practical to book our final flights back to our home countries. Now it just seems like a cruel joke.

But this whole post isn't a big downer. Perhaps I should back up a bit to fill you in on our final few days in New Zealand....at least the high lights.

After arriving from Fiji to the brisk and blustery city of Auckland, we headed straight to our hotel. Because it was to be our last two nights, I booked us into a funky little bed & breakfast called the Aspen Lodge in city center. With a little cash still in the bank, there would be no more budget bungalows or dorm-style hostiles. After relaxing in the room for a bit we headed out to spend the day strolling through the city, exploring the Viaduct Basin and the Americas Cup Village along the water front. The city, with its clean streets, crisp air and surprisingly friendly inhabitants, quickly had us charmed.

Back in our room that evening, the Sky Tower (a futureistic, space needly type structure) was clearly illuminated outside our bedrrom window. I had made reservations for us that night at The Observatory Restaurant on the top floor.

The setting could not have been more breathtaking or romantic.With the city twinkeling below us, we dined on king prawns, oysters on the half shell, baked salmon and beef medalions and toasted our accomplishment of surviving through it all together with a couple bottles of a local Shiraz (although the 360 views and the lovely, smilling lady accross from me were intoxicating enough). After dinner, we descended one floor to the observation deck.

Throughout this trip Radka had asked me several times about when would we see each other next and how would she ever get a visa back to the States. Each time I assured her that if we still wanted to be together at the end of the trip, we would make it happen. So, feeling even stronger about each other than we did at the beginning of the trip and secure in the knowledge that we can survive and overcome almost any obstacle, from the top of the tallest building in the Southern hemisphere... I proposed to her and she said 'Yes'.

So there it is...your fairy tale ending to a story book adventure. I could go on but it's all really minor details after that. And so as one voyage ends, another begins.
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i stil have a bit of time left on the computer here so here, with appologies to Harpers, is the "Trip Index"

307 - total number of days
7,368 - hours spent together without killing each other
35,000+ - miles covered
12 - countries touched down in
55 - number of different guest houses
2 - number of quality hotels
3 - friends houses
1 - number of succesful robbery attempts (Radka had some cash nicked in Sri Lanka)
1 - number of unsuccesful attempts (caught a guy with his hand in my pocket in line for a train ticket. I managed to grab him by the neck but I was at the front of the queue and had to let go)
17 - number of languages encountered
10 - guide books used
8 - religions encountered
2 - episodes of food poisoning endured
20 - novels read
1- Tsunami
4 - nights spent sleeping in airports (or their parking lots.)
Countless - trains, planes, busses, bemos, ferries, cyclos, songthaews, tuk tuks (and two cammels)
1- Marriage proposal

Fiji Time

The Yasawa Island group, home to The Blue Lagoon of film fame, sight of the infamous mutiny on The Bounty and once home to the fierce cannibals that chased the mutineed Captain Bleigh all the way to Timor in a cannoe...what a location for the last major stop on our voyage! There are more legends packed into this group of small island than people.

Having resigned ourselves to the fact that we would be spending more cash than anywhere else on the trip, we headed straight to the top of the chain, Nacula Island. A high speed catamaran took us most of the way (5 hours) with a local boat shutteling us the last bit to the beach. What we found on arrival were friendly villagers shouting the ubiquitous "BULA!", a white sand beach, crystal clear waters and and an arrangement of traditional style bure's (or thatched roof huts), one of which would serve as the last of our lodgings. I'm not sure I could think of a better place to wind it all up.

All though there were various activities on offer (snorkelling in the famed blue lagoon), what we did most of was chill. A vacation from our travels and a treat for making it this far was really all we had in mind...all to the accompaniment of the ever present Fijian harmonies that float along on langiud breezes.

The Nabua Lodge, as our accomodations were named, was a project of the whole village as opposed to Western owned resorts on other islands. We really had a chance to interact quite a bit the locals and it must be said they were quite a bit more hospitable than had we arrived 100 years ago. From The Kava ceremony to Big Woo ceremonies, we did as the Fijians did. It must be said...these people got it right. With their unhurried pace of life (Fiji Time!) and their ever so laid back attitudes, the life of a Fiji Islander is one to envy.

When it was finally time to leave, it was with more than a twinge of sadness. This not just because we were at the end of our tour but because we felt a close connection to many of those that had been our gracious hosts.

We are back in Nadi as I write this, awaiting our flight to New Zealand. The finality of it all is setting in producing a whole range of emotions. I can't wait to see everyone but can't believe it's really almost over. It will be hard to unpack my pack for the last time.....at least untill the next trip! I'm sure I'll be able to sqeeze in a few more posts before I'm back State side so stay tuned for the final chapter.

BULA...

...it's Fijian for "hello". Despite the obstacles thrown in our way, we've finally made it to Fiji. The small taste we've got already of the natural beauty that surrounds us has got us filled with anticipation. I'm absolutely exhausted, jet lagged and generally delerious right now but I wanted to get up a quick post, as where we are going, their is no internet or even electricity. Tomorrow, the plan is to head by boat to either the Yasawa Islands or Nananu-i-ra Island and just c h i l l. This place is loads more expensive than anywhere we've been thus far but we're going to treat ourselves just for making it....besides I don't suppose we have a choice ; )

Fun With Immigration Part 43

I feel like we've spent the last 92 hours swinging from an emotional pendulum. One minute it's "Yay! We're going to Fiji!" and the next it's "No! Radka needs a Australian visa. "Yay! We got the visa and were actually able to rebook all our tickets!" and then... Well...if you're one of those people that's adept at detecting paterns you can probably see what's coming next.

"I'm sorry. There seems to be a problem with New Zealand immigration. They want us to contact them before we can let you board." YOU. MUST. BE. JOKING. As it turned out, they weren't. Stupid questions were asked (to me: are you a citizen of New Zealand? this while holding my US passport.) and after calls were made back and forth with New Zealand and after about an hour had elapsed, we were told we could board. Uhh...gee...thanks for the favour.

Now it was time to pay for overstaying my visa (against my will). First the Indonesian immigration officer tries to inform me that I had overstayed one day longer than I actually had. "Nope." Then, instead of directing me toward the immigration office where I was meant to pay my 600,000 Rp, he looks around in a rather dodgey manner and whispers conspiratorialy, "Just put 500,000 in your visa and hand it to me." Hmmm...I guess I won't be getting a receipt for this one. The up side of bribery and corruption (besides saving a hundred thousand Rp) is that now I don't have any "over stay" marked in my passport. Whatever...just get me out of this place.

By the time the plane lifted off, all was almost forgoten. The lay over in Brisbane was fine enough and, as we expected, no one even checked Radka's hard earned transit visa. We were feeling pretty good by the time we touched down in Auckland but, as fate would have it, it was not to be smooth sailing in the "City of Sails".

"You're OK sir but for some reason the computer's telling me I can't clear her. We are going to have to go over to the office and have you speak with a Customs agent." Great...let's do it....I can't wait.

I think maybe Radka is the first Czech to ever fly into Auckland...or maybe it was training day at immigration...anyway, they mulled over her passport, turning every which way, flipping back and forth through all the pages as if it were all completely incomprehensible to them. Finally, with no explanation, a pleasant clean cut Kiwi stepped towards us with a smile and a "Here ya go mate. That's you sorted for New Zealand," we were in. Just like that....no further explanations.

And thus, the pendulum swung its weight in a brighter direction. That is, untill we rounded the corner to meet the folks at the MAF (the ministry of agricultue and forestry, or something like that). See...New Zealand is a small island country and a pretty beautiful and unspoiled one at that. Although they agreed to take us in as guests, they were not too keen on alowing in all the bugs and strange organisms we might be trailing along with us.

"Can you please remove all items from your bags made of natural materials?"
"Ahhh... does that include things like sea shells and wood carvings?"
"Yes. Exactly." Ahhh...right.

As we began to pull our perfectly packed and wraped souveigners from our bags it was becoming painfully obvious that almost everything we were carrying was made from natural materials. Masks. Carvings. Wooven reeds. ...and on and on and on. Then came the moment we had all been waiting for...Radka's shell collection. This is not a shell collection like you or I might assemble. This is a shell collection suitable for starting a "Beaches of the World" exhibit back in Czech Republic. I cringed.

At the end of the day, the people of the MAF were incredibly nice and patient (although visibly perturbed at times for missing their lunch break to hand check 980 shells for creepy crawly things) and let us pass un-fined or detained. Of course they did insist on holding on to most of the items in quarantine untill we departed the isle. Fair enough...I didn't really want to lug all that stuff to Fiji anyways.

It's a nice airport here...plenty of quiet spots to curl up for the night... some even with a view of the runway and the sea. In fact, SleepingInAirports.net even awarded it the Golden Pillow award (i'm not even joking). Unless the old pendulum decides to swing once more, it looks like we'll be in Fiji by this time tomorrow. I need a drink. Fortunatly, the cocktail lounge is right next door to our bedroom.

Saved By the Aussies

Everything is sorted! Just when you’ve lost faith in embassies when it comes to taking care of anything in timely manner…Australia comes through big time. I take back everything I said about them (the people at Garuda Indonesia are still twits though, imo).Got to run now and pack so we can get out of here in a few hours. See you in Fiji!

Friend of All the World

My mood is decidedly better today. Sitting here in Kuta with time to kill until we have a chance to plead our case tomorrow morning to the Australian Consulate has afforded me the opportunity to marinate on a few things (as my old hommie Shane Love would say) and even to find a bit of inspiration (inspiration can be a funny thing, coming when you least expect it and under the most oppresive of circumstances).

As only a few of you know, I had a project I was attempting when I set out on this journey almost a year ago. With music providing a major context for my life and informing many of my life’s decisions, I wanted to incorporate it some way with my travels. The original plan was to record audio from around the world, from ethnic music to ambient street sounds, and edit these recordings into a composition at a latter date that I hoped would serve as a sort of musical documentation of this trip. I wanted to create a concept album that I hoped would capture a feeling or a general vibe representative of each area that we would travel through.

Unfortunately, on December 26th, all the recordings that I had made thus far along with my recording equipment were lost forever. The fact that Radka and I emerged relatively unscathed from the Tsunami made this loss easier to accept. I just had to push the project out of my mind…until now. My ambition to see this project through to fruition has been renewed and the scope of it (at least in my mind) has been expanded. I now envision it moving from a mostly personal audio based record of our travels into a tool through which to share an insight into the varied cultures of the world that we have had an opportunity to interact with. I hope to accomplish this through the medium of music accompanied by a multi-media production that would provide photos, maps, stories and first person interviews and background information on the people and cultures that I interact with and document.

Although I have nothing now in the way of actual recordings, I have gained a wealth of information and a deepened appreciation for the mosaic of cultures that comprise this amazing planet. I’ve also had much time to reflect throughout this trip on how culturally insulated my own country is. America, in all it’s pig headed power, remains intent on exporting its definition of what is culture as well as its value system throughout the world without ever letting much from the outside penetrate into its homogenized interior. Many American’s understanding of other cultures is based on what little they glean from media reports which, obviously, provides a slanted view.

Music has always been a tool for creating unity and is often cited for its universal nature (who doesn’t respond to the beat of a drum?). What better way is there to move our understanding of other peoples and their cultures beyond mere stereotypes? How better to show people what connects us all despite our superficial differences? We are all citizens of the same planet (as opposed to just citizens of a “State”) and the sooner we can visualize ourselves being a part of a global community, as opposed to isolated pockets of self-interest, the better off we will all be.

Of course in America, the land of the gated community (which has always s been more about the “gate” than the “community”), this is no small task. Fortunately my expectations are modest. Consciousness and understanding can be changed one person at a time and all I can expect to do, or any of us for that matter, is make whatever small contribution I can towards achieving something positive in my lifetime.

Facing ones mortality can have a clarifying effect on ones outlook on and sense of purpose in life. We are all here for a finite amount of time and then we are gone. If an opportunity to create something of some value and relevance is afforded to you, no matter how small, I feel it is your obligation to pursue it.

The musical pseudonym under which I wish to produce this project, Friend of All the World, is taken from Rudyard Kippling’s novel, “Kim”. It’s the nickname bestowed upon the tittle character by the native peoples he meets on his travels through this “great and terrible” world. I like it.

I hope in voicing this idea, even in this limited forum, is the first step towards seeing it through to completion. Of course, it will take much time, effort and money to even begin the process of compiling the necessary audio, video, photographs and stories, but it is my great hope that I will maintain the necessary level of determination to make it happen and to leave something worthwhile behind.

Of course the first step is getting out of Bali ; )